Thursday, September 30, 2010

Smokies, Ozarks, and the Big Chi Part 2

Former Chicago Mayor Richard Daley
  Back with you all with much to report.  Leaving Memphis we headed over the Mississippi and west into Arkansas.  The last time I was there I was struck by the conflict of extremes, beautiful stretches of country giving way to demeaning, ugly pockets of poverty.  Tying our trajectory to its state parks we saw only its better side this time.  In the Ozarks we camped next to the Big Piney Creek and did a couple of short hikes, notably to the top of Whitaker Point.


  Coming down, we stopped to watch a wild herd of elk that grazes before sunset.  This scene struck me not just for the beauty of the animals but also for what it wasn't.  In the east, or in an area with some connection to big money, you would expect this scene to be stage managed.  What played as an organic scene, - granted at 300 yards - shutterbugs, parents with young children, itinerant recently wed attractive people all had an earnest moment with nature.  No one ruined it due to excess or ignorance and there was no need for the kind of hand holding you would expect elsewhere, i.e., park rangers fielding questions, guides shouting things to be heard over other bus tour guides, and everywhere some security contingent telling you where to go and what not to do.


I would be remiss if I weren't to mention that we managed to make it to the Eldorado of roadside tourist traps:  Booger Hollow, AK.  What had been a barely break-even proposition in back-country nostalgia finally went tits up a few years ago.  Now the double decker outhouse stands empty, the country store dispenses no more folksy wisdom while grifting you.



  We drove all night to get to St. Louis, passing thru Branson only long enough to ogle the lights, eat pizza, and leave.

In St. Louis we did the Jefferson Memorial to Westward Expansion (i.e., the big arch) and the Budweiser brewery tour.  In a word:  very satisfying.  The tour gives the necessary allotment of facts, Budweiser propaganda, interesting potpouri, and most importantly free samples at the end.

We got into Chicago around midnight, and managed some downtime while getting around the city.  The White Sox and architecture boat tour are stand outs.  Also had a really good meal at a place called Hot Chocolate where Hillary met some old Mercersburg pals and we closed the place down.

Mercersburg Alum photo, c. 2010
We're on our way to Minnesota today and look for a long stretch of camping after, so not sure when we'll be able to update next.   More to come for sure....... Thinking of you all- H+K

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